Thursday, 30 June 2016

Blank Slate Patterns Raleigh Romper: How I did....

This pattern comes with the Raleigh dress, it is two for one if you like :)
 
As such, the bodice is exactly the same as with the Raleigh dress.
 
I got this lovely owls fabric in a online fabric shops sale.

 
I choose a teal thread to match it. Once cut out, and the lining cut out, you sew the bodice part in exactly the same way as the Raleigh dress. Firstly sew from under the arm hole, across the neck, to the armhole, lining and bodice fabric right sides together.


 
Next, trim the seams, clip corners and curves etc...

 
Next, turn bodice right way out.
 
As I said I do like a bit of top stitching.. so I do that next along where I've just stitched.
 
Next, place the front and back bodice right sides together. Open out the lining and bodice, and pin lining to lining, bodice to bodice either side.



 
Now sew in one line, lining down to fabric.


and flip down, putting right side out, all the seams will be encased inside.
 
Now its the shorts. You place each front piece and each back piece onto each other, right sides together. Pin and stitch along the crotch.

 
Now open out both front and back shorts. Place them on top of each other, right sides together. Pin and stitch along the side seams.

 
Now to hem, open out so the shorts, so the crotch seams are either side.

 
Turn over along both bottom edges twice, pin and sew, creating a hem as normal.





 
Now, as this pattern is for babies and toddlers, it requires an poppered opening between the legs, for ease of changing nappies (its so annoying when you have to strip a toddler/ baby completely off to change their nappy - and you can guarantee that day will be the one they fill one every hour! haha).
 
Firstly you cut a wee bit of interfacing and iron it on approx. 3/8 inch away from the bottom edge on both front and back. I didn't take a picture of this, I do apologise :/
 
Next you fold up that 3/8 inch over the interfacing and then again to cover the whole of the interfacing, pin and sew.

 
Now, to attach the bodice to the shorts. These need no gathering unlike he skirt on the Raleigh dress, so you just pin to the bodice, right sides together.


 
Now is the buttonholes onto the front bodice. I chose to use some of the lovely buttons I inherited from my late grandmother. They are teal so went perfectly.






 
Now my favourite (NOT) bit - hand sewing. You need to stitch the poppers on. I found 4 closed the gap nicely.


 
Next, snip the buttonholes open and stitch the buttons on in the correct places.


 
All done! This is another lovely easy pattern for a beginner who wants to do a baby/ toddler romper/dungers. They could be done for either boys or girls. This pair is for my niece in Australia again :) My friend has commissioned a pair from me too for her gorgeous baby girl :)
 

 

Tuesday, 28 June 2016

Blank Slate Paterns Raleigh Dress: How I did....

I do really like the blank slate patterns by melly sews. They are not only lovely designs, but also enjoyable to sew. One of my favourites is the Raleigh dress and romper (coincidently Raleigh is also one of the youngests middle names as the hubby and I met at HMS Raleigh in Cornwall).
 
I was introduced to this pattern when looking for free patterns for the niece in Australia. Blank slate patterns were then available on Craftsy - and the dress pattern for 0-3 months was free. I used this - but my sister in law said how much she loved this dress on my niece that I decided to buy the full pattern.
 
For this version of the dress (in age 2 years) I decided to use this funky umbrella fabric I got recently.

 






Firstly you sew the lining to the bodice, both back and front. From the arm hole along the neck to the other arm hole.
 
Next, in order to get a crisper line when the bodices are turned right way out you need to trim the seam allowances ad clip the corners and curves.

 
and turn the right way out...

 
I am a huge fan of topstitching, as I think it adds a nice finish to sewing. So I pinned and sewed the bodice along where I had just sewn.




 
Next I added the buttonholes.








 
Next, you sew up the side of the bodice. This is unique, and very effective. You place the front bodice onto the back bodice and open out the lining and the bodice pieces.
 
You the pin the lining pieces to lining pieces at either side and bodice fabric pieces to bodice fabric pieces on either side.
 
You then stitch in one line either side, and finish just like you would a normal seam. You will end up with the seams on the insides.
 
Next is to attach the skirt to the bodice. You sew the skirt side seam up as normal first.


 
Then you gather the top of the skirt. There are many ways to gather, but I do the easy, cheats way as it is quickest, although it doesn't give you as even gathers as the other 'proper' ways, but it is good enough for something like this. Firstly you set your machine to the longest straight stitch and the highest tension on the top thread.
On my machine 00 is straight stitch, 3.5 is the needle position (3.5 is centre) and 5.0 is the longest stitch setting for straight stitch (default is 2.2).
 
Now stitch, leaving the thread ends long.

 
You then figure which is the bobbin (bottom) thread and gently pull that until you get a nice gather.

 
Turn the skirt right side out, the bodice inside out, and pin the skirt to the bodice right sides together.


 
and sew
 
Now do a fold up hem on the bottom of the skirt.



 
Next I cut open the button holes and sewed the buttons on.


 
and finished

 
I do love this pattern. I would say it is ideal for beginners who want to sew a baby dress as there are no sleeves, no zips etc. I would highly recommend it if you want to whip up a quick baby dress or you are just starting out sewing clothes.
 
Here's some I made earlier:
Age 0-3 months with Buttercup bloomers to match.
 
Age 0-3 months.

Age 9-12 months with Buttercup bloomers to match.