Dottie Angel Frock: How I did....

This pattern is a lust-have pattern and for good reason. Although it looks like there is very little shape to the finished product, it is actually a lovely fit. There are parts of this pattern I do struggle with and often get wrong. I loved the finished product so much though I keep trying haha.

 

This is the previous how I did blog I did: https://sewingkateplus4.wordpress.com/2016/05/07/dottie-angel-frock-how-i-did/

 

The first step when making this is to stay stich the neck. Stay stitching is a line of stitching to ensure that edges keep their shape.

 

Next is the pockets. They have a pleat in them which is marked on the pattern piece. bring each side to meet in the middle. Then stitch along the top to keep them in place.

 

Next is the top band on the pocket. You place right sides of the pocket and the top band together. Pin and stitch.

 

Next, fold over to the other side, fold under and stitch, creating a bad at the top of the pocket.

I also chose to top stitch.

 

Next is to bind the pocket. See Binding: How I do it post.

 

The next stage is to attach the pockets to the front. Trace the pocket placement marks on the front of the bodice.

 

Then pin pockets to the front.

 

and sew

 

Bodice front with pockets attached:

 

Next is to make the waist tie. You do this by making some bias binding with a bias binding maker (see this post for how to: https://sewingkateplus4.wordpress.com/2016/05/03/bias-binding-maker/)

 

Once made, fold the binding in half with the folds inside.

and sew....

 

Next is the pleats in the bodice. Mark on the bodice the pleat placement from the pattern piece.

 

Now, fold the pleats from one mark to the next (you will end up with two pleats - the one closest to the side seam make sure you have the waist ties in).

and sew the pleats - down each one, similar to when sewing a dart but straight down, on the wrong side of the fabric, so the folds will be on the inside.

 

Next sew the front and back bodice together at the shoulder seams.

 

To finish this seam you add binding onto it, sewing both sides of the binding, so the seam lies flat.

 

Next is the most awkward and difficult bit. The application of binding around the neck. I didn't take many pictures of the process as I didn't know I'd have to change blogs and there is a much more detailed description in the first blog post on my old blog. But you basically use the binding as a facing. The reason binding is used is as it is cut on the bias it has some stretch. This means you should be able to stretch and manipulate it to fit around the neck. You pin it on the right side first, wrong side of binding to right side of fabric. Sew. Fold over to wrong side of fabric so whole of binding goes over. Sew both top and bottom of binding.

 

In my experience this is really tricky, and no matter how much you stretch the binding the neck will not lie flat. I'm going to have to see if I can come up with an alternative way whilst still facing the neck with binding.

 

Do the same for the arm holes, sew up the side seams and again do the same for the bottom hem.

 

Finished.

 

As I said I do love the finished product of this pattern. It is a bit more obvious the finished shape in these pictures. Just be prepared for the fiddly neck finish.

 

Here two others I made earlier. I have now made all 3 views of this pattern :) The pattern number is Simplicity 1080.